A Night Among Influencers Helped Me Discover of the Roots of South African-Indian Cuisine
The Truro, a South African Indian restaurant in Tooting
I snagged an invite to the launch of The Truro, a South African/South Asian restaurant in Tooting. Tooting is known for its throng of restaurants from Afghanistan to Sri Lanka. A South African-Indian restaurant is a welcome addition.
South Asians have a significant presence in Africa and are a notable population in the U.K. The migration from India to Africa has given rise to a unique cuisine.
With my camera out of action, my plan was to shoot a video, grab some stills, and post to Instagram.
The restaurant was filled with influencers, for whom an event like this is a professional gig. They came prepared with lights, tripods, headphones, mics, and even assistants to perfect their art. I was seated next to a burger influencer. His table was piled high with dishes from the menu as he filmed himself eating and critiquing a hamburger. I was hooked! There’s no way I could film myself eating a burger, let alone analyze its flavor or texture in real-time.
Watching these influencers in action was an eye-opening experience. They talked to the camera, ate in front of it, and filmed b-roll footage and shot and re-shot the money shot. Perhaps I’m stuck in the dark ages, but I favour a good photo accompanied by well-crafted words.
Eventually, Mr. Hamburger Influencer wrapped up his shoot. Realising that the rest of his food was too cold to eat, he packed up his kit, grabbed his coat, and left to edit and upload his content and encourage his followers to come and try more burgers.
I ordered the house specialty: fresh off the braai chicken and Mozambique prawn platter. A creamy homemade sauce slathered the freshly grilled, tender, pull-apart chicken. But for me, it was the Mozambique prawns. As I prised them out of their shells, joy spread across my face as I shamelessly sucked the sauce from my fingers.
The Truro menu is filled with well-done crowd pleasers. The chicken is flavoured with Mozambique spices. Tucked into the vegetarian menu is where you’ll find the South African Indian dishes such as Bunny Chow - hollowed out white bread filled with curry. I’ve since found the name originates from ‘bania’ the caste of Indians who sold curry and chow refers to food.
Yet, even after this feed, I felt a sense of emptiness. I needed to know more about this cuisine and how Indian food and culture had made their way to Africa. And the answer lies in history.
Following the abolition of slavery, a system of indentured labor was established to replace slave labor in British plantation colonies.
The Truro was the first ship to leave India, arriving in South Africa on November 16, 1860. The final journey took place on July 11, 1911. By then, approximately 152,184 indentured Indians had been transported to Africa.
Indian labourers left behind harsh socio-economic conditions in the subcontinent, only to find themselves working in almost slave-like conditions on sugarcane plantations and in railway construction. The Indian community continued to preserve their religious and culinary traditions, giving rise to a fusion of African and Indian cuisine and dishes such as Durban curry, bunny chow, biryani, dhal, roti, samoosas, and chilli bites.
What about the Truro, the restaurant? It’s a fantastic family-friendly restaurant that’s halal and alcohol-free. I returned with my family on a Sunday to find it packed with large family groups enjoying the food and, as my kids put it, “the vibe.” I tucked into the chicken and prawn platter. My kids? burgers, of course!
The Truro
47 Upper Tooting Road,
SW17 7TR
References:
Hi Again, Ranji. And so much more in your essay than just the food. And agree with one of your Commenters about photo; tells a lot of stories.
I have a friend who does a food blog, but it is very ego-less, and is brief and about the food and she never films herself.
I suspect there are many reasons that people aspire to be Influencers, but one aspect whether conscious or not could be a bit to do with narcissism; sort of being a Movie Star in Their Own Mind. Maybe a bit harsh.
And food wastage ! a big sin from people of my parents generation who had grown up during the Great depression and food rationing of the WW2 era, and many families here han relatives who either died or experienced severe starvation/malnutrition as POW in Japanese concentration - like camps.
And words and mis identification; initially thought Mr Hamburger was being introduced as a person of Burgher heritage(sizeable population emigrated to Australia in 1960s and I went to school and good friends ). And one of my best young friends recently married a man of Burgher descent ( i was MC, in my vintage 1940s coat and tails). And amazing food; a mixture of Vietnamese and Burgher/Sri Lankan.
And the story of how the British shipped off South Asian people as a lowly paid and controllable workforce to many of their colonies in Africa , Asia and the Pacific ( Island of Fiji being a v good case in point (Google it).
And a few friends are part of this narrative and were born in places like Zambia, and South Africa ( those there ironically once Apartheid began, even less rights, a though for a period still British Subjects abd some even held Brit passports.
And was living in the UK at the time of the mass sudden (like get out in 90 days) expulsion of Asians by horrendously brutal dictator Idi Amin in Uganda. He redistibuted their prpoerty, businesses and money.. He did also muder at least 300,000 African Ugandas, and perhaps would have even less qualms of doing so to Asian ones?? Could go on, but will stop. The story of diasporic peoples has been always in my mind for several reasons.
However as you so rightly identify, at least there is the legacy of wonderfull fusion foods !!
The Bunny Chow story intrigues me, as it is a meal my Grandfather made often as where we came from a fresh made loaf of bread was stale dry in a day due to dry extreme temp in summer (like 45 C).
Thanks.
If I am ever in Tooting, I too would choose the Chicken and Prawns
He spends so much time working in his business Scottgreenscapes or looking after his girls, he doesn’t seem to make time for much else