Escape the Ordinary with this Coffee, Jaggery and Cardamom Cake
Coffee, jaggery and cardamom cake with roasted hazelnuts
Peckham Rye, South East London. I lived there in the days before it hit peak hipster.
When we moved to Peckham we lived in a newly converted flat on Rye Lane, above a joyous African church that belted out services day and night. Our mornings started with the clang, clash, and clatter of trucks delivering meat and vegetables to the halal butchers and African grocers occupying the area we fondly called Little Lagos.
At that time there weren’t any fancy bars, or bougie boutiques, just old mans pubs with yellowing walls, lockins, Saturdays filled with throngs of Millwall supporters. There was even a barber's shop called Desmond’s. It is said to be the inspiration for the British TV comedy Desmonds centering around the Afo-carribean community that frequented it. Desmond’s has now gone, turned into a ‘des-res’ flat.
There was one little coffee shop on Choumert Road, Petitou. It was on a corner, with large windows, and furnished with an assortment of higgldy piggldy vintage tables and chairs, more out of necessity than aesthetics. It was here that I would go for my solitary cup of cappuccino and the occasional cake: coffee cake - with coffee sponge, coffee frosting, and a scattering of crushed walnuts.
This former butcher's shop is still there, with its large north-west facing windows. You can still go and enjoy a coffee and cake. Even though coffee cake is no longer on the menu; you're more likely to have a slice of their vegan tahini and salted caramel brownies. And your coffee may well be a turmeric latte.
When I was developing this recipe1 this little cafe sprung to my mind, memories of those quiet moments of escape as I enjoyed my coffee and cake.
Knowing I couldn’t better the classic coffee and walnut cake, I created my version. It’s flavoured with cardamom and the addition of jaggery for a soft, moist crumb. I’ve tested several times with my co-workers, and at least three times with my kids. I think you’ll find that there’ll only be sticky fingers and crumbs left once you’ve finished making this cake.